The one with the socks

Falling Snow Boot Socks

These beauties are crocheted using Aran weight yarn with a 5mm hook and best of all, you can knock them up in no time. 

I'm not going to waffle on, let's face it - you're here for the pattern, but let me explain a few things first: 

• I used the beautiful 'Leader of the Pac' yarn from Hobbycraft (paid for by me - no affiliate either). You'll need one ball of each colour, but it's usually available on a three-for-two offer, so I'd recommend getting three, obvs. 
• I ran out of my main colour (only just) so I had to make my cuff in the contrasting colour. If you get two balls of your main colour, you'll have enough. If you want to make a contrasting toe, heel and cuff, you'll have enough yarn in one ball, too.
• By carrying the contrast colour around, you reduce the amount of stretch; if you want a more stretchy sock, leave out the contrast pattern, or use it more sparingly.
• Watch your tension - especially when working the contrast colour (don't pull this too tight). My advice is not to worry too much, just don't leave it too long before making your second sock or work two at a time so that you end up with two socks of a similar size.
• The sock is worked from the toe in continuous rounds (the pattern will tell you when to join). The heel is worked in rows and then the leg and cuff are in rounds.
• When the pattern says '3dc', it means make 1dc in each of the next 3 sts; if the pattern says '3dc in next st' it means put 3dcs into the next stitch.
• My sock fits me - I'm a UK 6. The pattern tells you how to alter it to fit you.  

Pattern in UK terms 

(for US terms, read dc as sc and tr as dc)

You will need:

1 x 100g ball each of Knitcraft Leader of the Pac in Cream and Mink (read above note)

5mm hook
4mm hook (for cuff)

Or you could substitute any Aran weight yarn and suitable hook

Gauge: 10cm x 10cm: 13.5 sts and 15 rows in pattern 

Size: to fit UK size 6 / US 8 / EU 39 (see pattern for size alterations) approx length from toe to heel: 20cm, sock height from heel to cuff: 20cm, width: approx 10cm (folded flat)

To make the contrast pattern:

Rnd A: *1dc in main colour, hook into next st, pull contrast colour through st, yarn over in main colour; rep from *around. 

Work over the ends of the contrast colour as you crochet around, dropping it for the next round and picking it up again when you need it next.

Rnd B: in main colour, 1dc in each st.

Repeat rounds A and B

Make 2

Toe

In main colour, 7ch

Rnd 1: Beginning in 2nd ch from hook, 5dc, 3dc in next st, turn to work other side of ch, 4dc, 2dc in next st. (14 sts)

Rnd 2: (6dc, 3dc in next st) rep around. (18)

Rnd 3: 7dc, 3dc in next st, 8dc, 3dc in next st, 1dc. (22)

Rnd 4: 8dc, 2dc in next st, 10dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc. (24)

Rnd 5: 1dc in each st around.

Rnd 6: 1dc, (2dc in next st, 5dc) x 3, 2dc in next st, 4dc. (28) - add or decrease more stitches in this round if you need to - don't worry about where they are put in or taken from, it won't matter too much at this stage. Make sure your total number of stitches is EVEN.

Rnds 7 - 31**: 1dc in each st around: Begin V pattern with contrasting colour.

** or until sole section reaches the end of your instep, just where your heel begins.

Heel

The total number of stitches in your sock will affect the number of stitches in your heel turns. No matter what, the process is the same: halve the number of stitches and work the stitches suggested:
The 1ch at the beginning is a turning chain and doesn't count as a stitch.

For my socks: 

Row A: in main colour, 14dc, turn 

Row B: 1ch, 9dc, turn,

Row C: 1ch, 4dc, turn.

For your socks: 

Total number of stitches in round in bold
30 (15, 10, 5)

26 (13, 9, 4)

24 (12, 9, 3)

22 (11, 7, 3)

20 (10, 7, 4)

Heel turn

Here, you will crochet across the heel, picking up an extra stitch from 3 rows below each time. This creates the heel shaping.

Rows D onwards: 1ch, 1dc in each st, 1dc in next st from 3 rows below, turn.

Continue Row D until you have regained the same number of stitches from the heel, then continue working the V pattern in rounds around the leg of the sock:

Rnds 32 - 47 ***: In V pattern, 1dc in each st around until leg height reached, sl st to 1st dc to join rnd.

***until height of sock is reached.

Cuff

Drop down a hook size for a tighter fit - 4mm

Rnd X: 2ch, 1tr in same st, 1tr in each st around, sl st to first tr to join.

Rnd Y - Z: 2ch, 1tr in same st, 1fptr, (1tr, 1fptr) rep around, sl st to first tr to join.

Fasten off, weave in all ends.

Enjoy your socks and stay cosy!

Sarah xx

Granny Square Day 2019!

Granny Square Day 2019 is finally here!!!

I was absolutely thrilled when Simply Crochet Magazine asked myself, along with fellow designers,  Sharna Moore, Dedri Uys and Katie Jones to be Granny Square Day ambassadors for its 6th year and create our own squares to celebrate this wonderful and ever-popular motif. 

Recently, I've ben enjoying the simplicity of a solid granny square, made in two colours - I think the possibilities of creating patterns by how they are arranged is fascinating and with this in mind, I knew it would be the basis of my design. 

Here's an arrangement of two-tone squares to create a chevron effect. Clever, eh?

Hook up one to join in today, or make loads and turn them into a fabulous cushion or blanket.

Textured Solid Granny UK terms

Special abbreviations: bptr (back post treble) fptr (front post treble)

Rnd 1: Using colour A, 4ch (counts as 1ch and 1tr), (2tr, 2ch, 3tr, 1ch change to colour B, 1ch, 3tr, 2ch, 3tr, 2ch ) in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch. TURN.

Rnd 2: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1bptr, 1tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1bptr, 1tr, (2tr, 1ch, pick up colour A, 1ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1bptr, 1tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 1tr, 1bptr, 1tr, (2tr, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 3: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, 1fptr, 3tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, 1fptr, 3tr, (2tr, 1ch, pick up colour B, 1ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, 1fptr, 3tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 3tr, 1fptr, 3tr, (2tr, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 4: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 5tr, 1bptr, 5tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 5tr, 1bptr, 5tr, (2tr, 1ch, pick up colour A, 1ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 5tr, 1bptr, 5tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 5tr, 1bptr, 5tr, (2tr, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 5: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1tr) in 2ch-sp, 7tr, 1fptr, 7tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 7tr, 1fptr, 7tr, (2tr, 1ch, pick up colour B, 1ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 7tr, 1fptr, 7tr, (2tr, 2ch, 2tr) in 2ch-sp, 7tr, 1fptr, 7tr, (2tr, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Textured Solid Granny US terms

Special abbreviations: bpdc (back post double crochet) fpdc (front post double crochet)

Rnd 1: Using colour A, 4ch (counts as 1ch and 1dc), (2dc, 2ch, 3dc, 1ch change to colour B, 1ch, 3dc, 2ch, 3dc, 2ch) in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch. TURN.

Rnd 2: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc, 1bpdc, 1dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc, 1bpdc, 1dc, (2dc, 1ch, pick up colour A, 1ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc, 1bpdc, 1dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 1dc, 1bpdc, 1dc, (2dc, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 3: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc, 1fpdc, 3dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc, 1fpdc, 3dc, (2dc, 1ch, pick up colour B, 1ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc, 1fpdc, 3dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 3dc, 1fpdc, 3dc, (2dc, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 4: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 5dc, 1bpdc, 5dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 5dc, 1bpdc, 5dc, (2dc, 1ch, pick up colour A, 1ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 5dc, 1bpdc, 5dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 5dc, 1bpdc, 5dc, (2dc, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Rnd 5: 1ch, 1sl st into 2ch-sp, (3ch, 1dc) in 2ch-sp, 7dc, 1fpdc, 7dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 7dc, 1fpdc, 7dc, (2dc, 1ch, pick up colour B, 1ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 7dc, 1fpdc, 7dc, (2dc, 2ch, 2dc) in 2ch-sp, 7dc, 1fpdc, 7dc, (2dc, 2ch) in 2ch-sp. Join with sl st to 3ch. TURN.

Join in the fun on Instagram on the 15th August and use the hashtag #grannysquareday2019.

Find our more about Granny Square Day here.

Enjoy the day!!
Sarah xx

Just a heart

Whether or not you celebrate Valentine's Day, there's something infinitely enduring about a heart.

So when my insta pal sweet_sharna announced she was running her #leavealittleheart campaign again this year, I decided I wanted in.

The premise is simple: make a little heart (knit, crochet, sew, origami etc.) and leave it for someone to find on February 14th. You could tie it to a park bench or hang it on a branch - the only advice I would give as a responsible yarn-bomber is that you don't want to be accused of littering, so why not attach a 'please take me' note your heart, so there's no confusion.

There's a story behind my heart pattern, too - or rather the yarn I used. You see, being one of the Stylecraft Blogstars, I've tried most of their yarns, except the Classique Cotton DK. It was when I travelled to Breidagen (the Dutch knitting festival) with the Stylecraft Team that I took part in Emma Varnham's workshop to make Billy Bear using, you've guessed it, Classique DK.

Well it quite literally blew me away! Now, I use a lot and I mean A LOT of cotton yarns in my design work - it's particularly brilliant for toys and motifs and has such a lovely finish, but it does have the tendency to be a bit splitty. But not this stuff - it's got just enough of a twist to keep the yarn from coming apart as you crochet with it, which is a revelation!! This means speedier work for me as I don't have to keep faffing around with my stitches. And being Stylecraft, it's affordable, good quality and in a great range of colours. And as it's my new favourite, I'm using it for everything at the moment. 

Now, there are approximately eleventy-billion free heart patterns out there, so here's another to add to them. You could leave yours for someone to find, or make a garland, or use as an appliqué. I've bought some little linen bags which I might add mine too - they'd make the perfect gift.

Obviously, I've used Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK ('cos I'm obsessed), but you could use whatever you fancy.

JUST A HEART PATTERN

I used:

3.5 mm hook

Stylecraft Classique Cotton DK in Dove, Peppermint, Poppy, Hot Pink, Fuchsia

UK terms:

Rnd 1: 3ch, in the 3rd ch from your hook make the following: 2tr, 1dc, 3tr, 2htr, 1tr, 2htr. Join to 3rd ch with sl st. (12 sts)

Rnd 2: 3ch, 1tr in same st, 2tr in next st, (2tr, 1htr) in next st, 1 spike dc into centre hole, (1htr, 2tr) in next st, (2tr in next st) four times, (1tr, 1dtr, 1tr) in next st, 2tr in next st twice. Join to 3rd ch with sl st. (26 sts)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

US terms:

Rnd 1: 3ch, in the 3rd ch from your hook make the following: 2dc, 1sc, 3dc, 2hdc, 1dc, 2hdc. Join to 3rd ch with sl st. (12 sts)

Rnd 2: 3ch, 1dc in same st, 2dc in next st, (2dc 1hdc) in next st, 1 spike sc into centre hole, (1hdc, 2dc) in next st, (2dc in next st) four times, (1dc, 1tr, 1dc) in next st, 2dc in next st twice. Join to 3rd ch with sl st. (26 sts)

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Enjoy making your little hearts and have fun spreading the love.

Sarah xx

Dear Ewe

It's a clever name, isn't it?

Rebecca and Heather

I was obviously thrilled when Heather and Rebecca from Dear Ewe offered a giveaway prize for our Christmas edition of CrochetZine*

I was even MORE thrilled when they asked if I would like to be sent some of their goodies for a blog review. 'Errrrrrrrrr, yes please!' was my rather-instant reply. You see, I'd been eyeing up several of their products for a while.

Heather is the fabulous crochet designer behind the blog, Keep Calm and Crochet On and her designs feature regularly in the UK's top crochet magazines. Rebecca is the talented graphic designer of Keepsakes by Rebecca and together, they are the creative team behind their new brand, Dear Ewe.

Their concept is sound - creating high quality, contemporary and functional gifts for crafters and their ethos is resonant with modern, small business consumers. Rebecca and Heather say:

We're proud to live in Stoke-on-Trent (affectionately known as The Potteries) - officially recognised as the World Capital of Ceramics, so felt strongly about using locally produced fine bone china, that is hand decorated by skilled lithographers. Our textiles are all hand-finished locally too - sourcing our products close to home and supporting local business owners and our local community was something we were both very keen to do.

What a good thing to hear.

So now, on to the goodies!!!! First out of my box was THIS tote bag:

This is a pic from their website - I wanted to show it without my creases!

I LOVE the sentiment. I LOVE the size (perfect for shopping - am thinking Yarndale-type-festival-binge - it will hold a tonne of purchases - see top pic). OR it will be great as a very ample-sized project bag - jumpers, blankets, cushions etc. AND it's very good quality: I have plenty of project bags which are a bit on the flimsy side - this one is nice, thick cotton and will stand up on its own. All good in my book.

Next are the prop cards:

For anyone who hasn't seen these before, they are used by us Instagrammers and Bloggers as a photo prop beside a project - they can provide a little humour to a picture and help engage the reader. 

What I really like is obviously the design - black and white work with every colour scheme and the text is easy to read and clear in photos. The phrases themselves are cute and relevant to modern makers. Lastly, the quality is perfect - good, thick card (so will last me a while) and EVEN better - double-sided!! What a great idea - twice the fun.

Then there are the cards:

Simple, sweet and very, very cute. I am already planning who to give these to, and then changing my mind because I don't want to give them away!!! Again - sweet sentiments, great design and good quality. They made me smile as soon as I opened them.

Lastly, the one I have been VERY excited about;

It's a Granny Square Chart on a MUG!

The crochet chart mug!!!!! Isn't is FAB????!!!! I seriously have no words. Design and quality are superb. There are 4 different crochet chart mugs, 4 character mugs and 4 crafter mugs to choose from.

So what would be my verdict? I'm hoping you've already got the general idea - I am seriously impressed. Great quality, superb design and original ideas make the Dear Ewe products something I will be buying for my crafty friends.

AAAAAAND, 'cos they're super-nice and lovely, Rebecca and Heather have offered you, my lovely readers an exclusive 10% discount code to use on your order up until 24th December 2018: just use ANNABOOANDEWE at checkout! If you order before Dec 20th 2018, they'll also guarantee UK Christmas delivery, too!!

Happy Christmas to you all,

Sarah xx

*Instagram's first crochet magazine; 12 squares of crochet loveliness delivered every month to your IG screen.

These items were received as a gift in return for an honest review on my blog. All views and opinions are my own.

A Very Little Llama

Inspired by everything llama at the moment, I realised that one of my previous patterns could be easily adapted to fit the bill...

You may remember The Very Little Giraffe (a random teacher gift my daughter asked me to make)? Well it struck me that the shaping was pretty llama-esque and with a little tinkering around with the ear placement, and the addition of a blanket and tassels, a llama it could be ...

It's the perfect small project for using up all those odds and ends of yarn - hooray!!

A Very Little Llama Pattern (UK)

(For US, dc is the same as sc and dc2tog is the same as sc2tog).

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch
dc = double crochet
dc2tog = double crochet 2 together**
sts = stitches

**to make the dc2tog stitch using the invisible decrease method:

Insert hook into the front loop of the first stitch.

Insert hook into the front loop of the second stitch (3 loops on hook).

Yarn over and pull yarn through the first two loops (2 loops on hook).

Yarn over and pull through both loops.

You will need:

Yarn and hook of your choice (any weight yarn and hook to match will work)

I used a 3mm hook and small amounts of Rico Ricorumi in Beige (55), Tangerine (26), Wine Red (29) and Fuchsia (14)

Toy stuffing
Black / brown embroidery thread for nose and eyes

Stitchmarker - mark the first st of each round

Head

Stuff as you go.

In Beige:

Rnd 1: 6dc in magic ring or 2dc, 6dc in 2nd st from hook (6 sts)

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnds 3 - 4: 1dc in each st around.

Rnd 5: (1dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnds 6 - 8: 1dc in each st around.

Rnd 9: (1dc, dc2tog) repeat around. (12 sts)

Stitch eyes and nose.

Rnd 10: dc2tog around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and sew closed.

Ears (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6dc in magic ring or 2dc, 6dc in 2nd st from hook. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: (1dc, 2dc in next st) repeat around. (9 sts)

Fasten off. Sew to head

Neck, body and legs

(Leave long tail at beginning for stitching to head and stuff as you go)

Ch 6, join with sl st to first ch.

Rnd 1: 1ch (doesn't count as st), 1dc in each st. (6 sts) 

Now in continuous rounds

Rnds 2 - 5: 1dc in each st.

Rnd 6: *1dc, 2dc in next st; rep from *, 2dc. (8 sts)

Rnd 7: 2dc, *2dc in next st; rep from * three times, 3dc. (11 sts)

Rnd 8: 3dc, *2dc in next st; rep from * four times, 4dc. (15 sts)

Rnd 9: 4dc, *2dc in next st; rep from * six times, 5dc. (21 sts)

Rnds 10 - 13: 1dc in each st.

Front leg

Rnd 14: 1dc, dc2tog, dc 4, then cross to the other side (see pic) and 4dc back to stitchmarker. (10 sts)

Pictures from Giraffe Pattern

Rnd 15: dc2tog around. (5 sts).

Fasten off and sew closed.

Back leg

Rnd 14a: 1dc in each st around. (10 sts)

Rnd 15a: dc2tog around. (5 sts).

Fasten off and sew closed. 

Stitch between the legs to close the hole.
Stitch head to body.

Tail

Make a knot in the yarn and stitch it into place. Separate the strands to create the tail.

Blanket
In Tangerine
Rnd 1: 6dc in magic ring or 2dc, 6dc in 2nd st from hook. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: *2dc in first st, 2dc in next st, 1dc; rep from *.  (10 sts)
Rnd 3: In Fuchsia, 1dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 3dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 2dc. (14 sts)
Rnd 4: In Red, 2dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 5dc, 2dc in next st, 2dc in next st, 3dc. (18 sts)
Fasten off, but leave a long tail for stitching in place

Halter
Make a chain long enough to fit around the muzzle and join with sl st. Make another chain to fit around back of head and join with sl st to other side. Stitch in place.

To finish:
Add tassels of yarn to tips of ears and sides of muzzle. Add pompoms or any other decorations you like.

And that's it!
Enjoy your teeny llama,

Sarah xx

The (not my idea) t-shirt yarn bag

I cannot take any credit for the idea behind this bag - you see my good friend, Sharna made one and shared it on Instagram and I loved it.

Find Sharna's inspiring Insta feed here and her blog here

A quick search through my stash at home revealed lots of odds and ends of t-shirt yarn and a deeper dig unearthed some wooden bag handles, too.

And so, inspired by her totally marvellous idea, I decided to come up with my own original design pretty much completely copy it.

If you'd also like to be cool like Sharna and strut around with a copy-cat bag like me, then here's what to do:

You'll need around 350g-ish of t-shirt yarn oddments, a 15mm hook and D-shaped wooden handles (approx 17cms width) find similar here. (Some of my t-shirt yarn was a bit thin, so I worked holding two strands together to even things up a bit.) 

Pattern UK terms (US below)

Make Two

Rnd 1: 4ch (counts as 1ch and 1tr), make 7tr in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to 3rd ch. (8sts)

Rnd 2: 2ch, 1tr in same st (counts as tr2tog), 1ch, [tr2tog, 1ch] in each st around. Join with sl st to 1st st. (8st, 8ch)

Rnd 3: Beginning in any 1ch-sp, [2ch, 1tr (counts as tr2tog), 1ch, tr2tog] in 1ch-sp, [tr2tog, 1ch, tr2tog] in each 1ch-sp around. Join with sl st to 1st st. (16sts, 8ch)

Rnd 4: Beginning in any 1ch-sp, [3ch, 1tr, 2ch, 2tr] in 1ch-sp, 2tr between the next two sts, 2tr in 1ch-sp, 2tr between next two sts, *[2tr, 2ch, 2tr] in same 1ch-sp, 2tr between the next two sts, 2tr in 1ch-sp, 2tr between next two sts; rep from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch. (40 sts, 8ch)

Handle/joining

Rnd 1: (this will vary slightly, depending on your handle). Beginning with one of the squares, in any 2ch-sp, [1ch, 2dc] in 2ch-sp, 1dc BLO in each st over handle, 2dc in 1ch-sp

Now put the other square, with WS facing the WS of the piece you are working on. Make 1dc in the same 2ch-sp and the corresponding 2ch-sp of the square behind, then work your way around the two pieces, joining them by working 1dc BLO of front square to join FLO of back square. Make 3dc in the 2ch-sp space and repeat around, making 1dc in the first 2ch sp where you started.

Now you will just work across the back square. Make 2dc in the same 2ch-sp, 1dc FLO in each st over handle, 2dc in 1ch-sp.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

(Or if you're really lazy like me, tie the ends in a knot on the inside of the bag and snip them.

Job done.

Enjoy your bag - it really is the perfect summer accessory!

Pattern US terms 

Make Two

Rnd 1: 4ch (counts as 1ch and 1dc), make 7dc in 4th ch from hook. Join with sl st to 3rd ch. (8sts)

Rnd 2: 2ch, 1dc in same st (counts as dc2tog), 1ch, [dc2tog, 1ch] in each st around. Join with sl st to 1st st (8st, 8ch)

Rnd 3: Beginning in any 1ch-sp, [2ch, 1dc (counts as dc2tog), 1ch, dc2tog] in 1ch-sp, [dc2tog, 1ch, dc2tog] in each 1ch-sp around. Join with sl st to 1st st. (16sts, 8ch)

Rnd 4: Beginning in any 1ch-sp, [3ch, 1dc, 2ch, 2dc] in 1ch-sp, 2dc between the next two sts, 2dc in 1ch-sp, 2dc between next two sts, *[2dc, 2ch, 2dc] in same 1ch-sp, 2dc between the next two sts, 2dc in 1ch-sp, 2dc between next two sts; rep from * around. Join with sl st to 3rd ch. (40 sts, 8ch)

Handle/joining

Rnd 1: (this will vary slightly, depending on your handle). Beginning with one of the squares, in any 2ch-sp, [1ch, 2sc] in 2ch-sp, 1sc BLO in each st over handle, 2sc in 1ch-sp

Now put the other square, with WS facing the WS of the piece you are working on. Make 1sc in the same 2ch-sp and the corresponding 2ch-sp of the square behind, then work your way around the two pieces, joining them by working 1sc BLO of front square to join FLO of back square. Make 3sc in the 2ch-sp space and repeat around, making 1sc in the first 2ch sp where you started.

Now you will just work across the back square. Make 2sc in the same 2ch-sp, 1sc FLO in each st over handle, 2sc in 1ch-sp.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

(Or if you're really lazy like me, tie the ends in a knot on the inside of the bag and snip them.

Job done.

Enjoy your bag - it really is the perfect summer accessory!

Have a great weekend,

Sarah xx

Summer Bunting

Bunting

The perfect way to brighten up a mantlepiece, hang across the garden or adorn an otherwise plain wall.

And the Mister hates it, of course, but let's not worry about that for now...

Recently, I was sent a beautiful set of these Ricorumi cotton DK yarns to try. At just 25g each, they are designed especially for crocheting small Amigurumi and I thought they'd be brilliant for my bunting.

And so I've created* an easy peasy pattern which uses some of the pretty, summery colours available. You could any yarn you like for this - it would be a great stash-busting project. 

*I say 'created, but really this pattern is based on a traditional Granny Triangle pattern, which you can find everywhere. I just decided to add a dangly-bit. To make it pretty.

To make pom-pom: (US tr3tog = dc3tog)
(3ch, in 3rd ch from hook, tr3tog) twice, sl st at base of first tr3tog to close pompom (see blue arrow)

UK version (US below)

I used:

1 x 25g ball each of Rico Design 'Ricorumi' in Vanilla (5), Salmon (21), Nude (23), Light Blue (33) and Pale Green (45)

3.5 mm hook

4ch (counts as 1ch and 1tr)

Rnd 1: 2tr in 4th ch from hook, 3ch, [3tr, 3ch] twice. Join with sl st to 4th ch. 

Rnd 2: in any 3ch-sp, 3ch (counts as tr throughout) 2tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch in same sp, *[3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp; repeat from * twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Rnd 3: in any 3ch-sp, [3ch, 2tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch] in same sp,  [3tr, 1ch] in next 1ch-sp, *[3tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp, [3tr, 1ch] in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Rnd 4: in any 3ch-sp, [3ch, 2tr, 3ch, 3tr, 1ch] in same sp,  (3tr, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice, [3tr, 2ch, pompom, 2ch, 3tr, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp, (3tr, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice, [3tr, 3ch, 3tr] in next 3ch-sp, (3tr, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining

20ch at beginning for hanging loop, then make [3tr, 1ch] in each 1ch-sp. When joining the next triangle, omit the 1ch.

US version

4ch (counts as 1ch and 1dc)

Rnd 1: 2tr in 4th ch from hook, 3ch, [3dc, 3ch] twice. Join with sl st to 4th ch. 

Rnd 2: in any 3ch-sp, 3ch (counts as dc throughout) 2dc, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch in same sp, *[3dc, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp; repeat from * twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Rnd 3: in any 3ch-sp, [3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch] in same sp,  [3dc, 1ch] in next 1ch-sp, *[3dc, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp, [3dc, 1ch] in next 1ch-sp; repeat from * twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Rnd 4: in any 3ch-sp, [3ch, 2dc, 3ch, 3dc, 1ch] in same sp,  (3dc, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice, [3dc, 2ch, pompom, 2ch, 3dc, 1ch] in next 3ch-sp, (3dc, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice, [3dc, 3ch, 3dc] in next 3ch-sp, (3dc, 1ch in next 1ch-sp) twice. Join with sl st to 3rd ch.

Joining

20ch at beginning for hanging loop, then make [3dc, 1ch] in each 1ch-sp. When joining the next triangle, omit the 1ch.

And that's it. It goes without saying that you can keep adding triangles until your bunting measures the length you desire. And if, like me, you REALLY want to annoy your other half, just keep making more and more and more to festoon every corner of your home.

Have a great week,
Sarah xx

CrochetZine

CrochetZine

It's brand new, shiny, online magazine about all things CROCHET - and I'm super-proud to be part of the creative team behind it. 

So what is this exactly? 

It's a magazine with just 12 pages. In each monthly issue, we plan to feature two free patterns, articles about designers, makers and current topics, some funny stuff and a brilliant giveaway. The idea is that it's just about long enough for you to read in your tea-break. And feedback from our readers so far, has been amazing.

CrochetZine is the brain child of Sharna Moore (one of my crochet besties) and I was thrilled to be asked if I'd like to be part of the team, along with Chrissie Asbridge (my other crochet bestie). Now, you'll need to read the mag to find out how it all got started, but we've discovered that we're a bit of a dream team, which is so important when you're beginning a new venture, isn't it?

Find the pattern for these coasters in Issue One

Here's how it works: 

Sharna is the really arty, crafty one. She's beautifully creative, has a bazillion original ideas in her head and is a throughly nice person.

Chrissie, apart from also being amazingly talented at crochet and embroidery and having a very successful YouTube Channel, has a background as an Editor and is also a thoroughly nice person.

Me? I'm a designer, maker and author and can write and check patterns and, with being a teacher, am quite the organiser.

And so you see, it all works rather well.

If you'd like to have a read, and see what all the fuss is about, then read CrochetZine here.

CrochetZine is the first Instagram crochet magazine; 12 squares of crochet goodness delivered to your IG feed every month.

Join us for the ride as we’ll be featuring patterns you REALLY want to make, features and articles you REALLY want to read and some of the newest and coolest designers and makers on the block you REALLY want to meet.

I hope you enjoy it!!

Sarah xx

Batik Swirl Wrap (and a little giveaway)

It's the newest member of the Stylecraft Batik family

and it's perfect for lazy crafters like me who cannot bear sewing in  ALLLLLLL the ends.

Batik Whirl is a yarn-cake of loveliness.

Stylecraft's Batik Yarn has been around for a little while now and I'm a really big fan, I have to say. I recently designed a shawl for Inside Crochet Magazine using the Batik solids range and I enjoyed working with it - the yarn has a nice bounce to it and the stitch definition is great.

The next release was the Batik Elements range. A collection with a different range of shades within a ball, designed to work alongside the Solids. Again, the same quality yarn with the same feel and effect. With this, I designed my Learn to Knit Shawl.

And now there's the Swirl.... it's a big, 200g cake with up to five different colours, which are repeated and at the mo, there are six different colour ways. I chose Purple Mist - a collection of greys and purples and different to any of my other shawls, scarves or wraps.

So I thought I'd make a rectangular sort-of half-blanket that you can wear as a wrap or a scarf. 

(Because let's face it,  I've hardly got any ...)

I designed this to be easy (cos I don't do difficult) but also to be the kind of project you can sit and make in the evenings, whilst watching your favourite thing on the telly-box.







I made mine with two swirls (400g), but you could make a narrower version with just one - instructions are given for both.

You will need:

2 x Batik swirl for wider wrap like mine or 1 x if making a narrower version. - I used Purple Mist (shade 3730)
or around 400g / 1100m (200m / 550m for narrower version) of dk yarn

4.5mm hook

Finished size approx: 47cm x 150 cm (wide version) 22cm x 150 cm (narrow version)

Gauge: approximately 16.5 stitches and 9 rows to 10cm

Chart showing rows 6 - 9:

UK Pattern

Abbreviations:

Stitch(es) st(s)

Chain ch

Treble Crochet tr.

ch 79 (wide version) or 40 (narrower version)

Row 1: beginning in 4th ch from hook, make 1tr in each st across, turn.

Rows 2 - 6: 3ch (counts as tr here and throughout), beginning in 5th ch from hook, 1tr in each st across, turn.

Row 7: 3ch, 3tr in 6th st from hook, sk 2 sts, *3tr in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * until 2 sts left, sk 1 st, 1tr in last st, turn.

Row 8: 3ch, 1tr in space before first treble cluster, 3tr in each space between clusters, 1tr in space after last cluster, 1tr in last st.

Row 9: 3ch, 3tr in each space between clusters, 1tr in last st.

Rows 10 - 135: (approx): repeat rows 8 and 9 alternately.

Rows 136 - 140: repeat rows 2 - 6.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

US Pattern

Abbreviations:

Stitch(es) st(s)

Chain ch

Double Crochet dc

ch 79 (wide version) or 40 (narrower version)

Row 1: beginning in 4th ch from hook, make 1dc in each st across, turn.

Rows 2 - 6: 3ch (counts as dc here and throughout), beginning in 5th ch from hook, 1dc in each st across, turn.

Row 7: 3ch, 3dc in 6th st from hook, sk 2 sts, *3dc in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from *, until 2 sts left, sk 1 st, 1dc in last st, turn.

Row 8: 3ch, 1dc in space before first treble cluster, 3dc in each space between clusters, 1dc in space after last cluster, 1dc in last st.

Row 9: 3ch, 3dc in each space between clusters, 1dc in last st.

Rows 10 - 135: (approx): repeat rows 8 and 9 alternately.

Rows 136 - 140: repeat rows 2 - 6.

Fasten off, weave in ends.

I just love this wrap! It's very soft and with the added wool content, it's really warm, too. Perfect as a chunky scarf to keep out the chills when I'm out and about, or as a wrap-blanket (a wraplet?) to snuggle up with on those draughty evenings on the sofa.
Perfect.

If you'd like to win a cake of the very lovely Batik Swirl in Purple Mist, then simply enter the giveaway below:

a Rafflecopter giveaway


I'll draw it on Thursday 25th Jan 2018. Open worldwide.

Hope you like the pattern and good luck in the giveaway!

Sarah xxx