The perfect little bag

It's a bag.

Just a little bag, but so useful. 

The perfect size, in fact for all the essentials*.

What makes it even more perfect is the fact that it takes about an hour to make and it doesn't need lining (what a Godsend - I blimmin' HATE lining bags).

Oh, and it has tassels. 

What's not to love??

Fancy making one?

*There is, in fact a bigger, tote-style bag in my NEW BOOK, Supersize Crochet (and it doesn't need a lining, either - hoorah! Take a quick look over there on the sidebar →

You'll need around 500g/ 71 meters of your favourite t-shirt yarn (I love this shop) and a small amount in a contrasting colour for the tassels, 17cm / 6.5" bag handles (mine are from here) and a 12mm hook.

The finished bag measures around 26 x 19 x 6cm

Pattern notes 

I used the cross-dc variation of the double crochet (US single crochet) stitch - see my post Quest for a Stitch to find out how to do it. If you prefer, you can use the normal dc (sc), the pattern will work just fine.

I also worked from round 2 in continuous rounds without a slip stitch to join or ch1 at the beginning, which was to avoid a seam. If you'd prefer joined rounds, then feel free to do so. Again, the pattern will work.

Don't want tassels? Simply work rnd 5 as regular dc (US sc) stitches and leave off the tassels!

Nope, I'm not crocheting glasses - it's how you work across the bag handles on Round 1

UK Pattern (US Below)

Rnd 1: Make 10dc across the first handle, 5ch, 10dc across the second handle, 5ch. Join with a sl st to the first dc to join. (30 sts)

Rnd 2 - 3: 1ch, 1dc in each st around (do not join - work in continuous rnds from here on).

Rnd 4: (Short row) 5dc (leave 25 stitches unworked).

Rnd 5: 1dc in each st BLO.

Rnds 6 - 12: 1dc in each st around.

Base 

18ch

Row 1: 1tr in each of 12 chains, beginning in the 4th ch from your hook, sk 2 ch, sl st in last ch.

To join base to bag, and with RS facing, sl st through FLO of rnd 12 to stitches around the base piece.

Fasten off.

To make up:

Cut tassels to the desired length and attach to the exposed loops from Rnd 5.

Joining the base to the bag

US Pattern

Rnd 1: Make 10sc across the first handle, 5ch, 10sc across the second handle, 5ch. Join with a sl st to the first sc to join. (30 sts)

Rnd 2 - 3: 1ch, 1sc in each st around (do not join - work in continuous rnds from here on).

Rnd 4: (Short row) 5sc (leave 25 stitches unworked).

Rnd 5: 1sc in each st BLO.

Rnds 6 - 12: 1sc in each st around.

Base 

18ch

Row 1: 1dc in each of 12 chains, beginning in the 4th ch from your hook, sk 2 ch, sl st in last ch.

To join base to bag, and with RS facing, sl st through FLO of rnd 12 to stitches around the base piece.

Fasten off.

To make up:

Cut tassels to the desired length and attach to the exposed loops from Rnd 5. 

Taaa daaaaah!

See? Quick and easy !!

Enjoy crocheting and don't forget to tag me so I can see what you've been making!

Have a fab week,

Sarah xxx

A little crochet storage bowl

I'm always in need of storage - you?

I have big baskets for yarn and boxes for projects, tins for hooks and pots for needles.  

But I hadn't got anything for all those little bits.

You know - the  tiny gubbins which find their way down the sides of the sofa - those little stitchmarkers, yarn needles, tape measure...

 

And then I had a simple idea for a simple bowl.
So I made it.
And I made a video, too.

Want to make one for all your bits and pieces?

Here's the YouTube video, or see below for the written pattern:

 *This pattern is written in UK terms, for US, substitute double crochet for single crochet*  

Pattern:
You will need: 85g  / 17m (approx) tshirt yarn
12mm hook
Yarn needle
Stitch marker

Stitches used:
dc = double crochet
cdc = centre double crochet (to make a cdc, insert your hook into the 'legs' of the stitch  - see pic)

Row 1: 6dc in magic ring
Row 2: 2cdc in each st around. (12 sts)
Row 3: (1cdc, 2cdc in next st) repeat around. (18 sts)
Rows 4 - 5: 1cdc in each st around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Easy peasy!

Enjoy your week,

Sarah xx

Crochet a cosy draught excluder (and stay warm this winter)

I live in a new-ish house.
But still, the draught which sneaks in from under the front door can be arctic.

So I had a draught excluder - I say HAD, because it is retired from service, having most definitely seen better days; it's lost all stuffing from being dragged around by the kids, in fact, child 1 used to regularly take the dirty, fluff-covered thing to bed with him *sigh*. 

The Mister has been suggesting for ages that I should make a new one. And I have:

Now, my two prerequisites for any project are this; it must be
a) quick and b) easy.

So I decided on tshirt yarn as the perfect stuff - it's big, works up quickly and is also heavy enough to give weight to the draught excluder and keep the cold air out when laid by the front door.

I chose a simple design, which uses the centre double crochet stitch, as it's great for creating a dense and non-gappy stitch (I don't want the stuffing falling out, or the dog will eat it *big sigh*).

So the best thing about a draught excluder is that it's a great way to keep your toes warm and save energy too. And why not keep track of the energy used in your home by having a smart meter installed?  It's easy, free and means you only pay for the energy you use. Visit Smart Energy GB to find out lots more.

If you fancy keeping cosy this winter, then first is my YouTube tutorial, or scroll down for the written pattern.
It goes without saying that you can change the width and length of your draught excluder to fit the doors in your house.

(Patterns are in UK terminology- for US, change 'dc' to 'sc')

Pattern 
You'll need:
approx. 1280g / 256m of tshirt yarn (about a third of this is colour A, two-thirds, colour B)
12mm hook
approx. 500g cushion stuffing 

From Rnd 1, the draught excluder is made in a continuous round of stitches, but you don't need to bother with a stitch-marker.

Stuff as you go.

In colour A, chain 20, join with a sl st to first ch. 
Round 1: 1ch (doesn't count as a st), 1dc in each st around.
Rnds 2 - 18: 1cdc in each st around.

Flatten the beginning end and slip stitch the two sides closed.

Rnds 19 - 20: change to yarn B, 1cdc in each st around.
Rnds 21: change to yarn A, 1cdc in each st around.
Rnds 22 - 67*: change to yarn B, 1cdc in each st around. 
*or until desired length reached - mine needed to be 90 cms . 

To make up.
Finish stuffing and slip stitch the other end closed.
Fasten off and push the ends inside.


Do share pictures of your projects - you can find me at all my favourite places - I love to see what you've been making!

How will you stay warm and save energy this winter?

Have a great week, and stay cosy,

Sarah xx

(This is a sponsored post in collaboration with Smart Energy GB)  

The one with a bobble stitch cushion

I've been meaning to get this pattern out for months, I tell you. It's one of those which has been lingering in my design book, waiting for me to take some photos and make a YouTube tutorial to accompany it.

And I've finally done it.

It's not at all difficult and involves a hook, yarn, some double crochet and some bobble stitches. 

And a few buttons.

And a cushion that measures 45cms*

* ok, that's a teeny lie. I used a 45 cm cushion, but this pattern can be easily adjusted for any size- see under the pattern for how to do it.

Onwards.

Bobble Stitch Cushion

Pattern written in UK terms

ch = chain

dc = double crochet

yoh = yarn over hook

To make the bobble stitch:

1) Yoh, hook into stitch, yoh, draw yarn through stitch.

    Yoh, draw yarn through first 2 loops (2 loops on hook)

2) repeat (3 loops on hook)

3) repeat (4 loops on hook)

4) repeat (5 loops on hook)

5) repeat (6 loops on hook) 

6) Yoh, draw yarn through all loops.

You need:

Hook and yarn (what ever you fancy here. I used 4 x balls of Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in Glacier (shade 105) and a 12 mm hook.

Cushion

Buttons (I used 4 x 2.5cm)

Pattern

Both sides of the cushion are crocheted in rows. At the beginning of each row, turn your work and ch1.

Front of cushion (make 1)

Foundation chain: ch31

Row 1: dc in each st across row (31 sts)

Row 2: dc 3, *bobble in next st, dc 3* repeat from * to * across row

Rows 3-5: dc in each st across row (31 sts)

Row 6: dc 5, *bobble in next st, dc 3* repeat from * to * across row, until you have 5 sts left, then dc 5.

Rows 7-9: repeat row 1

Rows 10-37: repeat the pattern: row 2, then x3 rows of dc, then row 6, followed by x3 rows of dc 

Back of cushion (make 1)

Foundation chain: ch31

Rows 1-37: dc in each st across row (31 sts)

To make up:

Align the front and back pieces with wrong sides together with the bobble side facing you, right-way-up. Beginning at the top left corner and working in a clockwise direction, dc three of the sides together. You will need to put 3 dcs in the corner stitches. Stitch a few buttons along the top of the cushion, on the wrong side of the bobble edge. Use the spaces between the stitches on the back piece as button holes.

To adjust this pattern to fit any cushion, you need to alter the width and height of the front and back panels. To adjust the width, make sure your foundation chain is a multiple of 4 and add 3 more. To change the height, simply add or subtract the total number of rows. 

Simples.

Enjoy all your crafty endeavours this week,

Sarah xx

Crochet a magic circle

Probably one of the most useful little tricks I know, this one.

It's a great way to start off your projects in the round (hats, toys etc) as it leaves a nice neat finish, with no visible hole.

And it's really not difficult, either.

I tried a few techniques until I settled on this one, which I thought I'd share with you.

Enjoy crocheting,

Sarah xx

The one where she does Youtube

So I've thinking for ages about making some video content for my blog and I've had lots of lovely peeps asking me for patterns, tutorials and the like in video format.

No, I said emphatically.
I am too technologically challenged to even comprehend how to achieve such things.

And then a while ago, I got a smart phone and a tablet and all these impossible tasks became a little easier.

Actually, a lot easier.

And so, buoyed by my recent adventures on film, I decided to have a go.



I wanted something which looked ok, but the most important thing was its clarity; I wanted the videos to be informative and clear.

So now, with a little precarious balancing of the ipad on the corner of the coffee table and trying to record audio inbetween the dog barking and the kids demanding biscuits, I have cobbled together a few videos.

It's just a little start, but I intend to cover the basic stitches, as well as some simple projects and a few patterns from my blog, too.

The clips are just over there on the left sidebar, so do have a look, and I'd love it if you subscribed to my channel too- just click on that button at the top and you won't miss out on anything new.

Right, am off to order a proper ipad-holder-bracket-type-thingy from a well-known online retailer.....

Wishing you all a fab week,
Sarah

P.S. do let me know if there's anything you'd like to see as a YouTube tutorial.. x

CAL Episode 3: Body and legs

'ello again, crochet bunnies.
Lovely to hear from so many of you about how you're getting on with this little project and great to see your photos in our Flickr group too. 
I'm also super-relieved that the instructions have made sense and the photos helped too.

Right, I know you're itching to get on, so pros- your instructions are at the bottom, everyone else, read on.

Just to remind you, this pattern is worked in rounds in a continuous spiral of stitches. Use your stitch marker to mark where you began each round.

Stitches and abbreviations:
I use US crochet terms, so single crochet here is the SAME as UK double crochet.

Chain (ch)
Single crochet (sc) 
Stitches (sts)
Decrease (dec) 

Ok, so we left our heads with 5 scs.



We are going to carry on from where we left off and work the body and one of the legs as one continuous piece.  

Round 1
2 sc in each sc (10 sts)

Remember what to do? 
Make 2 single crochets into each stitch around. Remember to move your stitch marker to show where the first stitch of the round is. 

Round 2
(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (15 sts)

Make 1 single crochet in the first stitch (stitch marker in) and then make 2 single crochets in the following stitch. Repeat around.

Round 3
(2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (20 sts)

Make 1 single crochet into the first stitch (stitch marker in). Make the 2nd single crochet into the next stitch and then make 2 single crochets into the 3rd stitch.
Repeat around.

Round 4
(4 sc , 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (24 sts)

A bigger increase here, so make 4 single crochets and then 2 into the 5th stitch. Repeat around.



Rounds 5 - 12
Sc 24

NOTE: If you would like to add a little crochet skirt to your creation, then on round 8 you need to single crochet in the BACK LOOPS ONLY.
This will leave you with a round of loops in your work- see pic. 



We will use these loops later (trust me, this isn't any more difficult than anything else you have done so far)



I also changed colour on round 9 to give my mouse some white underwear!! 
Optional, of course.
To change colour, make the beginnings of your next single crochet as usual, but stop when you have 2 loops on your hook. Leave a length of yarn and cut it. Now make a slip knot with your new coloured yarn, put it onto your hook and finish off your single crochet by pulling through a loop of new colour and completing the stitch. Carry on with the pattern.

Round 13
(4 sc, dec 1) repeat around (20 sts)

We just need to reduce the stitches a bit here, to shape the bottom of the body.
So make 4 single crochets and then squish the next 2 stitches together in a decrease. Here's a reminder: 

Insert hook into next stitch. 
Yarn over, pull up a loop. ( You will have 2 loops on your hook)
Insert hook into next stitch.
Yarn over, pull up another loop. ( You will have 3 loops on your hook)
Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops together.



Ok. That is the body 'done'. You'll need to stuff it now. Make sure you push the stuffing into the neck too, otherwise you'll end up with a floppy head.

Next, you need to flatten it (squash between your fingers) and close it with 10 single crochets.
You need to make sure your stitches end up at the side of your Monk/Kat/Doll, or you'll end up with wonky legs.
See where my round has finished in the pic below?



I just did about 6 scs until I reached the side.
Do the same with yours and make a few more single crochets until you're at the side too.

See the stitches below?  



We just need to join the pairs with 10 single crochets (the first and last one are always a bit tricky, just do your best).




Done? Now for the legs (don't cut the yarn yet!)

Have a look at your marvellous handiwork. We will be making the first leg by turning the work and single crocheting around the FRONT LOOPS only of the first 5 stitches.
Don't panic!!!!
T'is all easy.

Round 1

First, turn your work. You need to make 5 single crochets in each of the FRONT LOOPS of the first 5 stitches. You will be working from right to left.



[Rather unhelpfully, I realised that this photo was taken before I had turned my work. Therefore the arrows are pointing at the back loops at the moment. Once I turn my work, these will become the front loops.]

This photo shows making the first sc in the front loop:



Ok. Now turn and make 5 more stitches in the new front loops.





See? Easy!.

Rounds 2 - 25
Sc 10
Stuff as you go and remember to use your stitch marker.



(if you are making a doll and want to change the yarn colour for shoes, then make your colour change at the beginning of round 25)

Round 26
(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (15 sts)

Rounds 27 and 28
Sc 15

Round 29
(1 sc, dec 1) repeat around (10 sts)
Finish stuffing.

Round 30
(Dec 1) repeat around (5 sts)

Stitch closed. 



I hide the thread end by poking the needle back up through the middle of the leg and snipping off. 



End hidden.

Now for the other leg. You need to put a slip knot onto your hook and make your leg in exactly the same way as before. Just make sure you work across the front of your creation from right to left. This ensures you have the 'right' side of your work on the outside.

Follow the instructions as before and BINGO! - A 2-legged-creation all of your own. 



You can hug him/her now and look forward to making arms, ears and all other bits very soon.

As before, PLEASE ask me any questions and let me know if something seems wrong.

And do join our Flickr group and post your pics.

Well done again and I'll see you in a week....!
Xx


Written Pattern:

Continue from the 5 stitches you have on the head.

Round 1 
2 sc in each sc (10 sts)

Round 2
(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (15 sts)

Round 3
(2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (20 sts)

Round 4
(4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (24 sts)

Rounds 5-12 
Sc 24
If you want to make a crochet skirt for your creations then on Round 8 you need to single crochet in the BACK LOOPS ONLY.



This will leave you with a round of loops in your work which we'll use later.
I also changed colour on round 9 to give my mouse some white underwear!! 
Optional, of course.

Round 13
(4 sc, dec 1) repeat around (20 sts)

Stuff

Next, you need to flatten it and close with 10 single crochets -make sure your stitches end up at the side of your Monk/Kat/Doll, or you'll end up with wonky legs. (Just make a few more single crochets until you're at the side.)
Don't cut the yarn- we will carry on from here.

LEGS.

Round 1
Turn your work. Make 5 single crochets in each of the FRONT LOOPS of the first 5 stitches.
Turn again and make 5 more stitches in the front loops again. 

Rounds 2-25
Sc 10
(Stuff as you go) 

Round 26 
(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) repeat around (15 sts)

Rounds 27 and 28
Sc 15

Round 29
(1 sc, dec 1) repeat around (10 sts)
Finish stuffing.

Round 30
(Dec 1) repeat around (5 sts)

Stitch closed.
Fasten off.

Repeat for leg 2.



As before, PLEASE ask me any questions and let me know if something seems wrong.

And do join our Flickr group and post your pics.

Well done again and I'll see you in a week....!
Xx